Nawie Kuiper and Branko Popovic at Runway Malta 2011

Dear Readers,

I've given myself a deadline: I must finish reviewing all the collections showcased at Runway Malta by tomorrow, or maybe midnight today. Featured in this post are two menswear collestions: those by the talened Nawie Kuiper and Branko Popovic. The two designers are both from The Netherlands. They have been collaborating since 2006, when they developed an interesting project in the slums of Fortaleza in Brasil. This collaboration eventually led to the establishment of 'FASHIONCLASH', which has been an official foundation since 2009. 

Nawie Kuiper

Allow me to start with some background information on this very, very promising designer. Nawie Kuiper studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Masstricht and graduated from the fashion and textile department. Nawie Kuiper opted to graduate with a men's collection. She was also awarded the Mittel Moda Award for her collection! Nawie Kuiper has always focussed on menswear, something which I particularly admire her for. I would personally find it very difficult to design clothes for the opposite sex. I feel that the dynamics of men's clothes work a bit differently. In fact, I find it tasking to write about menswear, let alone design it. So, Nawie Kuiper deserves credit for that as well. 

Nawie Kuiper's collection bears a very interesting name: 'One Day of Praying and Six Nights of Fun'. In a few words, Nawie Kuiper's collection at Runway Malta is inspired by Catholic priests in 2099. These priests like to party more than they like to pray, hence the name. I mean, how cool is that name? Seriously, that's ingenious!

Moving on to some technical aspects of this collection. Since, as I already highlighted, the collection is largely inspired by priests (priests of the future, to be exact), the designs are highly sombre. The main source of inspiration also explains why black is the predominant colour of this collection. Black, apart from being the sombre hue par excellence, is also the colour generally associated with clerical clothing. But, don't forget that these priests love to party, so they can't wear black all the time. They need their metallics and red, both major trends in the coming season. I have a slight feeling that the priest in red is the life the party.

I might not be savvy about menswear as I am about women's, but I do know that 'relaxed tailoring' is the next big thing in menswear. I had written about that here, just in case you want to refer back! The first thing I looked for in Nawie Kuiper's collection is 'relaxed tailoring'. Did I find it? I think so. The pieces are not too structured, and the seamless shoulder is there in a couple of them as well.

It would be difficult to choose one design as my absolute favourite, because in true honesty, I love them all. But I do have a particular fancy for the puffy jacket paired with gold leggings, just saying.

Nawie Kuiper, I want to be a man, to wear your designs. I'm not ashamed to say that I have the intention to use this collection as an inspiration for some outfits of mine in the near future. 

Branko Popovic

Like Kuiper, Branko Popovic graduated from the fashion and textile department of the Academy of Fine Arts in Maastricht. Unlike Nawie Kuiper, however, Popovic graduated with a women's collection. Interesting, right? But then Branko Popovic eventually shifted to designing menswear, like his close friend Nawie Kuiper.

Branko Popovic's collection has a very intriguing name as well. It's called the 'Transformed Star Project'. Upon first hearing the collection's name, I thought that this yet another interpretation of the 'Cosmic' trend going on at the moment. I intend to write on this trend very soon, so stay tuned. However, Branko Popovic's source of inspiration behind this collection lies elsewhere. You should know that Branko is originally from Croatia , a former Yugoslavian territory. The flag of the Republic of Yugoslavia had a red star on it. Popovic declares that this collection sees the transformation of the star shape as a metaphor for the splitting-up and transformation of Yugoslavia itself. I'm in awe, literally.

One doesn't need a huge telescope to spot how the 'star' shape was included in the collection. Look at all those pointed details. I personally love how some of those pointed accents are more subtle than others, making those pieces easier to adapt to personal everyday style. 

Black, White and Metallics were the predominant colours of this collection, although black stole the show. As I pointed out for Kaii Couture yesterday, there's also an interesting play with textures that I really dig. RAWR! I'm not sure whether I'm right on this one - maybe someone can help me! - but I think they were even PVC panels in some of the designs. Love this aspect, PVC or not, just amazing!

If I had to pick my favourite from this collection, I wouldn't hesitate to choose the trousers in the right picture here above. Just breathtaking. I would really love to rock those, even if they were designed for a man. That's just a detail!

My dearest readers, what an honour to have met these two designers in person! I'm sure we're going to hear much more brilliant things from them in the very near future! Thumbs up! 

-B