I remember that the first show I ever reviewed on this blog was last year's edition of the Up and Coming Designers show, otherwise known as the New Designers show. That is why I shall probably always have a little weakness for the new designers group.
Yesterday's Malta Fashion Week event was the New Designers show, once again set in the grandiose chambers of the Casino Maltese in Valletta. After munching on a little cupcake from Cinnabon, we were all in our seats waiting for the show to commence. Fourteen designers, all locally based, are not a few. No wonder we were all eager for the show to start.
First up was 'Celeste' by Martina Spiteri. Martina's fourth collection is inspired by flowers and their individual petals, and you could definitely spot these influences in her designs. Starting from the black tiered skirt to her closing piece, a burnt orange dress with butterfly details, I found that her chosen source of inspiration was translated mostly into silhouettes and subtle details.
Gremar, by designer Marie Grech, featured one of my absolute favourite items on show. In her collection, which she describes as an expression of passion and romance, Marie Grech included a stunning inverted peplum and pencil skirt suit which I can never see myself getting over. Not only was it in start contrast with the first numbers of the collection, but the originality of the idea behind it was incredibly surprising. I wasn't the only blogger to marvel at it as I'm sure you'll find out when you read other local bloggers' commentaries! I never expected cream and maroon to work so well together either!
I remember watching Creative Fator 7 last year and thinking, 'wow, they sure are creative, no wonder the name'. This year, however, Charlene Muscat and Angelique Attard have seriously outdone themselves! In a collection inspired by Maltese landscapes, these designers chose to use fabrics that clearly depicted some of the most traditional Maltese scenery and symbols, including typical Maltese countryside and the ever so known prickly pears. Tailor Gaetano Deguara should also be credited for the neatness of his work.
This is not the first time I had the chance of admiring Nadege Renee's jewellery line. In fact, she also took part in last year's upcoming designers show. I mention last year's work for a reason: I truly believe she has come a long way. Her mix of filigree and bulky exotic woods were traffic stopping. Put them on confident models it's magic.
Eli Sha's collection, entitled 'Silent Rebel', was a interesting example of how designers sometimes use one-coloured outfits - our combinations of similar hues and shades - to put silhouettes at the forefront. The collection featured an evident use of layering, which admittedly, is something that never goes out of fashion right?
If you were at the show yesterday, you might have seen my facial expression as soon as Samantha Muscat's designs graced the catwalk. Haven't I told you I love black and white outfits for 23486 times already? I can't praise the collection well enough. I coincidentally wore a similar black and white skater skirt (my favourite piece by far!). Star piece!
Seeing a bag designer on show yesterday was a breath of fresh air. Handbag designer By Dali featured a sizeable collection of very wearable bags that I can see many wearing out in the streets. I was impressed with the variety in terms of fabrics and shapes. In spite of the variety, all bags retained that staple By Dali touch.
We also had the pleasure of admiring some work from students of the British University for the Creative Arts. Students who have now earned themselves very coveted positions in the fashion industry. From the general feeling in the audience during the show, I could tell that the key piece in this collection was an ombre yellow and grey floor-sweeping dress. I can't help but agree.
Words cannot explain how glad I am Erin-Coal is back to the local fashion industry. Having seen her work quite a few times, I know how talented she truly is. I strongly believe that Caroline Vassallo, the mind behind the label, is the only one who can do what she does. Her collection was predominantly about draped fabrics, mostly lace, as well as elaborate head-wear and veils. This is surely a new direction for her. Is she considering millinery? I'm curious.
Probably the only collection I'd wear from beginning to end is the one from Sef Farrugia. Tweeds, turbans, bralets, mustard, maroon, prints: this designer won me over completely. As hard as it is to pick my favourite piece from the collection, I'd have to go with the mustard pants and bralet combination that I feel to be vintage and modern simultaneously. I'm looking forward to see more work from this incredibly talented designer (and I'm also going to recreate most of the looks on the catwalk, because yes, it was that good!).
Whenever I write about Ewa Nowacka, I always say that she is my favourite local based designer. It was therefore interesting for me to see her walk down a more minimal, subdued road. That alone highlights her versatility. We all know that versatility is a much acclaimed trait in a designer...
Fretka was definitely one of my top three designers from last night! Her aztec inspired pieces, as well her sleek, Chanel-reminiscent silhouettes oozed class and sophistication. I also liked the use of colour as well as the creative use of panels. I can see Stacey going places!
Last, but by far not least, was designer Muriel. Admittedly, I wasn't too impressed by the first two pieces of this collection (mainly because they weren't something that I would wear!), but the tide turned as soon as the third embellished dress came out on the catwalk. The detail on this dress, and the ones that succeeded it, were so elaborate! The show's closing collection was surely one of the strongest last night. The use of fur stoles, coloured tights and intricate detailing was a winning combination. We couldn't help but say 'this is something Blair Waldorf would wear.'
Overall, I was very much pleased with the work at the New Designers show yesterday night. You could tell that all designers put in a lot of effort into their work so they deserve to be credited for it. A round of applause, come on!
-B
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